Arriving

By Plane--Most flights arrive at Pearson International Airport, in the northwest corner of Metro Toronto, approximately 30 minutes from downtown. The trip takes 10 to 15 minutes longer during the weekday morning rush (7-9am). A few (mostly commuter) flights land at the Toronto Island Airport, a short ferry ride from downtown.

Pearson serves more than 50 airlines. At press time, the most impressive of its three terminals is the Trillium Terminal 3 (tel. 905/612-5100). This airy, modern facility has moving walkways, a huge food court, and many retail stores. However, there is an even grander terminal currently under construction that will replace the existing Terminals 1 and 2. (Terminal 1 has the distinction of being the gloomiest, ugliest airport terminal this travel writer has ever seen.) Its opening has been delayed, but it should be open for business in late 2003.

To get from the airport to downtown, take Highway 427 south to the Gardiner Expressway East. A taxi costs about C$36 (US$25). A slightly sleeker way to go is by flat-rate limousine, which costs around C$40 (US$28). Two limo services are Aaroport (tel. 416/745-1555) and AirLine (tel. 905/676-3210). You don't need a reservation. Most first-class hotels run their own hotel limousine services; check when you make your reservation.

The convenient Airport Express bus (tel. 905/564-6333) travels between the airport, the bus terminal, and major downtown hotels -- the Westin Harbour Castle, Fairmont Royal York, The Sheraton Centre Toronto, and the Delta Chelsea -- every 20 minutes, from 4:55am to 12:55am, with one extra run around 2:30am. The adult fare is C$13 (US$8.75) one-way, C$22 (US$16) round-trip; children under 11 accompanied by an adult ride free.

The cheapest way to go is by bus and subway, which takes about an hour. From Terminal 2, take the #58 bus to Lawrence West station, the #192 "Airport Rocket" bus to Kipling station, or the #307 bus to Eglinton West station. Only the #192 bus serves Terminal 3; there are no public buses from Terminal 1 (though there is a shuttle that will drop you off at Terminal 2 or 3). The fare of C$2.25 (US$1.60) includes free transfer to the subway. It doesn't matter which bus you use; they all take roughly the same amount of time. (The Airport Rocket reaches the subway fastest, but the subway ride to downtown is twice as long as from the other stations.) For more information, call the Toronto Transit Commission, or TTC (tel. 416/393-4636).

By Train--Trains arrive at Union Station on Front Street, 1 block west of Yonge Street, opposite the Fairmont Royal York hotel. The station has direct access to the subway, so you can easily reach any Toronto destination.

City Layout

Toronto is laid out in a grid . . . with a few interesting exceptions. Yonge Street (pronounced Young) is the main north-south street, stretching from Lake Ontario in the south well beyond Highway 401 in the north. Yonge Street divides western cross streets from eastern cross streets. The main east-west artery is Bloor Street, which cuts through the heart of downtown.

"Downtown" usually refers to the area from Eglinton Avenue south to the lake, between Spadina Avenue in the west and Jarvis Street in the east. Because this is such a large area, I have divided it into five sections. Downtown West runs from the lake north to College Street; the eastern boundary is Yonge Street. Downtown East goes from the lake north to Carlton Street (once College St. reaches Yonge, it becomes Carlton St.); the western boundary is Yonge Street. Midtown West extends from College Street north to Davenport Road; the eastern boundary is Yonge Street. Midtown East/The East End runs from Carlton Street north to Davenport and farther east along Danforth Avenue; the western boundary is Yonge Street. Uptown is the area north of Davenport Road.

In Downtown West, you'll find many of the lakeshore attractions -- Harbourfront, Ontario Place, Fort York, Exhibition Place, and the Toronto Islands. It also boasts the CN Tower, City Hall, SkyDome, Chinatown, the Art Gallery, and the Eaton Centre. Downtown East includes the St. Lawrence Market, the Hummingbird Centre, the St. Lawrence Centre for the Arts, and St. James Cathedral. Midtown West contains the Royal Ontario Museum, the Gardiner Museum, the University of Toronto, Markham Village, and chic Yorkville, a prime area for browsing and dining alfresco. Midtown East/The East End features Riverdale Farm, the historic Necropolis cemetery, and Greektown. Uptown has traditionally been a residential area, but it's now a fast-growing entertainment area, too. Its attractions include the Sunnybrook park system and the Ontario Science Centre.

North Toronto is another burgeoning area, with theaters, such as the Toronto Centre for the Arts, galleries, and some excellent dining. It's not yet a prime tourist destination, but it gets a few mentions throughout this guide.

Toronto sprawls so widely that quite a few of its primary attractions lie outside the downtown core. They include the Toronto Zoo, Paramount Canada's Wonderland, and the McMichael Canadian Art Collection. Be prepared to journey somewhat.

Finding an Address -- This isn't as easy as it should be. Your best bet is to call ahead and ask for directions, including landmarks and subway stations. Even the locals need to do this.

Underground Toronto--It is not enough to know the streets of Toronto; you also need to navigate the labyrinth of walkways beneath the pavement. If the weather's bad, you can eat, sleep, dance, shop, and go to the theater without even donning a coat. Look for the large, clear underground PATH maps throughout the concourse.

You can walk from the Dundas subway station south through the Eaton Centre until you hit Queen Street, turn west to the Sheraton Centre, then head south. You'll pass through the Richmond-Adelaide Centre, First Canadian Place, and Toronto Dominion Centre, and go all the way (through the dramatic Royal Bank Plaza) to Union Station. En route, branches lead off to the stock exchange, Sun Life Centre, and Metro Hall. Additional walkways link Simcoe Plaza to 200 Wellington West and to the CBC Broadcast Centre. Other walkways run around Bloor Street and Yonge Street and elsewhere in the city.

While its wide-ranging network makes this an excellent way to get around the downtown core when the weather is grim, the underground city has its own attractions, too. First Canadian Place in particular is known for free lunch-hour lectures, opera and dance performances, and art exhibits.